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Carmel-By-the-sea (carmel):
Chez Noir: A jewel box of a restaurant opened by the husband and wife team of Chef Johnny Black and Monique Black, this restaurant is not to be missed. Hell, drive the 2 hours from the SF Bay Area just for dinner, it will be worth it! Strongly seafood focused and cooking in the classic continental traditions (French and Spanish influences shines through strongly on our visit), Chez Noir brings the local seafood bounty to the table and presents wonderful ocean proteins not typically seen on American tables. Case and point, the Bonito that served as my main at dinner, beautifully seared to a crisp golden brown on one side and moist and deliciously flavorful through out. As a fan of mackerel and other more oily fish, the taste and flavor notes on this dish was beyond compare! The bed of marrow enriched sauce upon which the bonito sat was rich and silky, the celery root batons, cooked in butter, luxurious! Other proteins such as Abalone and Squab grace the menu as well, the Squab was another wonderful dish we had, cooked perfectly and surrounded by a sea of au jus that was lip stickingly delicious. The crowning glory of the dish, to my wife and i, two lovers of the innards and offal, was the perfectly cooked heart, glistening like a jewel on the plate. Highlights: the Crab and Jamon Croquettes (which my wife proclaimed show never leave the menu) and the Monterey Squid Gildas. The menu changes with the catch that arrives on shore. Don’t miss the dessert menu! Chef Black’s Chocolate Tart is not to be missed. Also, do not pass up on the cocktail selections, it is a fine bar that recalls Paris of old and tended by two wonderful bartenderessses who knows their way around flavors and alcohols. No dress code, outdoor seating is available. Reservations are highly recommended, though one can chance a bar seat if feeling lucky!
Jeju Kitchen: Located in Carmel Plaza on Ocean and Mission, is Jeju Kitchen. A casual restaurant serving infinitely approachable Korean influenced food that will delight a wide swath of culinary wants. Along side several Korean classics (dumplings, Korean Fried Chicken, Jeon, Bi Bim Bap, etc) is a tempting list of burgers, pastas, and salads. If you are expecting traditional and authentic Korean flavors, this may not be where you will find it. The Korean influences are elegantly blended and moderated for the taste buds of the local clientele and the international visitors, but they are there, happily and beautifully waving the Korean culinary flag proudly. Their Gangnam Tots is one such delightful fusion dish, crispy totes tossed in a cheesy gochujang laced sauce that makes it hard to stop at just a dozen tots! The Jeon (Korean Pancake) o the menu is well proportioned, well filled, and well fried! Truly enough for a meal on its own, but a fun share plate with friends. The Jajangmyeon is quite tasty but, if you are a student of Jajanmyeon of of China and Korea, you might find the flavors lacking depth, but for the uninitiated, it is a delightful introduction indeed. The dumplings (mandu) is juicy and full of filling, get it in a soup, Dumpling egg soup (Duk Mandu Guk), and enjoy the delightful pork dumplings and chewy rice cakes that will make your dinner fun and memorable (it is one of my favorite of Korean dishes, so yes, a bit biased). The staff is friendly and the service warm and efficient. The atmosphere is relaxing and, though they start the table off with two bottle waters, the staff is quick to ask your water of choice and letting you know that bottle service is not the only water service available. No dress code, restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. Lunch is walk-in only while reservations are available for dinner and is strongly recommended. The restaurant is quite popular with locals and visitors alike!
Lafayette Bakery: Located in the Barnyard Shopping Village in Carmel, Lafayette Bakery is truly a touch of France in coastal Northern California. Their baked goods and sandwiches (made on delightfully adorable mini baguettes) are satisfying and their quiches are just tantalizing and filling. A personal favorite is their Bacon and Cheese Puffs, wonderfully cheesy gougeres with bites of bacon scattered through out the eggy light choux pastry. Their croissants are flaky and comes in traditional and modern flavors. Wonderful outdoor seating in a back patio with limited seating inside. Coffee is self served and well brewed. No dress code, no reservations, stop in for breakfast or lunch and go away happily carb’d up and joyous!
Little Swiss Cafe: The Little Swiss Cafe of Carmel on 6th and Dolores is quite a gem. A little bit off the beaten path (a street or two, but that does make a bit of difference when it comes to crowds), the shop greets with with Alpine sweetness in its laced curtains, Dutch doors, and carved wood panel details that will have you listening for the Alphorn and looking out for Heidi. Not a huge restaurant, but cozy, well staffed (very attentive and efficient staff) and marvelously configurable tables (spring loaded leaves that converts from 2 to 4 to 6 tops effortlessly). Their breakfast menu was what we went in for and fell in love with. Everything is well prepared and served hot and fast, but the jewel of the meal is their “thin pancakes”… a beautiful crepe like pancake that is gorgeously browned, dotted with holes and glistening in the dab of butter placed on top. No need for any dusting of sugar or extraneous fruit or cream, this pancake by itself is glorious! The chew to the pancake is joyous and life affirming! The depth of flavor, missing the cloying sweet of the standard vanilla extract infused batters at other establishments, allows you to control exactly the amount of sweet/savory you wish with each bite. i like to cut strips and roll them up and dip as my heart desires into the syrup and just enjoy the beautiful elastic tender chew that results. Great breakfast spot with traditional American and European breakfast fare. No dress code, no reservation, stop in with hunger and a love of delicious pancakes!
Lugano Swiss Bistro: located next to and below the Lafayette Bakery in the Barnyard Shopping Village, Lugano Swiss Bistro offers herbaceous cheese fondues, broth fondues, and traditional Swiss fare like Schnitzel and various wursts along with fresh seafood and pasta. The interior is very much “Swiss”, full of warm honey coloured wood and evocative decor that is unmistakably “Swiss”. The service is friendly and efficient and the food is delicious. Given the topography of the Barnyard, one can almost imagine a meal in the foothills of the Alps… well… almost, lol! No dress code, reservation on weekdays would not go amiss! Open for lunch and dinner.
Monterey:
Fish House, The: Family operated by the DiGirolamo family and located in a salmon pink home, The Fish House is a throw back to classic Italian seafood restaurants of a simpler time. The dishes are simple, well executed, using the fresh bounty that Monterey can offer daily. Many of their seafood items are grilled on an Oak wood fired grill and the smokey scent and flavor truly differentiates the grilled seafood. Try the Oak Fired Oysters, why not? Only a dollar more than your classic shucked half-shells and the added wood fire flavor is truly revelatory. Do get the 50/50 Fried Calamari/Sicilian Calamari, the fried calamari is in a delicate light breading and perfectly fried while the Sicilian calamari is pan cooked calamari in a zippy red sauce with olives. A fantastic contrast in flavors and textures that satisfies as a starter or, dare i say, as a main. The seafood, as mentioned above, is fresh and The Fish House knows how to handle them and how not to do too much to top quality ingredients. A Monterey institution for a reason! No dress code, now taking reservations.
Passionfish: It is not a surprise that seafood restaurants serving sustainable seafood is easy to find in Monterey, after all, the world class Monterey Aquarium does a splendid job of out reach and education. However, Passionfish not only serves sustainable ingredients on their menu, they do it with flair, artistry, and skill. Tuck into the various very fresh seafood dishes but do not by pass the wonderfully prepared terrestrial options either! To describe a dish of Lamb Breast as spoonable is quite daring but when it comes out fragrant, delicious and “spoonable”, one gets excited and very happy — Snoopy dance happy. No dress code, reservations highly recommended.
Wave Street Cafe: Yes, it is near the famous Cannery Row, but the food is not standard turn and burn tourist fare. The all day breakfast and lunch menu allows you to explore both experiences at any time. Fried Calamari for breakfast? Why not? Enjoy the beer battered calamari, not heavily breaded but crisp, delicate, and served with a zingy cocktail sauce. Get the Calamari Steak and Eggs if you have an aim to eat calamari every chance you get while in Monterey, who’s harbor still hosts an active fleet of squid boats. A great place for generous breakfast and lunch fare indeed! No dress code, no reservation needed and the wait is never too long.